Pilgrim's Progress – Long Distance Walks in Europe and the UK

Sweet are the uses of adversity,
Which, like the toad, ugly and venomous,
Wears yet a precious jewel in his head;
And this our life, exempt from public haunt,
Find tongues in trees, books in the running brooks,
Sermons in stones, and good in everything.

William Shakespeare – As You Like It.

The weather forecast for the day ahead was far from auspicious – intermittent drizzle with periodic heavier downpours and occasional glimpses of sun. As it transpired, it proved unerringly accurate!

It seemed a good time to take my foot off the gas and have a relatively easy day- 31km to Marols, a community of artists and one of the most beautiful villages in France my host proudly told me later in the day.

Claire was adamant that I had a hearty breakfast before she ferried me back to Champdieu and made me adieu. Fortified by two large bowls of strong coffee and innumerable slices of toast lashed with butter and jam, I left Champdieu rejuvenated with a spring in my stride.

I reached Montbrison by mid morning. With a population of nearly 17,000 it would be the largest town I would cross before reaching Avignon.

Montbrison is famous for its cheese. I tried some at supper the previous night at Claire’s. It had a subtle taste infused with parsley. Apparently it is much valued by chefs in the region.

Montbrison was the capital of the Forez region where the Counts of Forez were based. Founded in the 10th century it was fortified in the 14th century to provide protection against the marauding English armies during the 100 Years War.

The church in the main square was impressive – built in the 13th century it was at one time the largest gothic church in France.

Just around the back of the church I couldn’t resist visiting the heraldic hall of Diana.

Built in 1296 by one of the Counts of Forez to celebrate his marriage, the centrepiece of the hall is a magnificent wooden ceiling adorned with the coats of arms of 1970 families who owed allegiance to the Count.

The hall was used as the assembly and parliament of the Counts of Forez. According to my guide, only one of the heraldic families adorning the roof still exists with direct descendants. 1789 and all that!

It had been raining on and off all morning but the clouds briefly lifted when I reached Montsupt, a Celtic site dating back over 2000 years. The views of the surrounding countryside were sublime!

By the time I reached the outskirts of Marols, it was fairly hammering it down. I wasn’t entirely sure where my hosts for the night ( Jacques and Sylvie) were located.

As I approached the village I saw somebody waving at me from outside a house. “Are you the Englishman?” he enquired. I nodded and made a beeline for the shelter of his house. It was indeed Jacques, my host for the night.

Shortly after he had thrust a hot coffee into my hands and sat me down at the kitchen table for a chat, he told me that he had been hosting pilgrims since moving here 10 years ago.

During that time he had met thousands of pilgrims. Mostly French but a broad array of other nationalities. And English pilgrims?

“Yes” he exclaimed excitedly, “you are the second one I have hosted. The first was some time ago back in 2016!”

Thriving in adversity – I felt like the long awaited King of pilgrims!